Q:  Recently I hired a roofing contractor to re-shingle my roof. When the job was finished, I noticed that the bottom row of shingles did not overhang past the fascia board as I have seen on many other houses. The contractor insisted that the way he installed the shingles was correct and refused to make any changes. Is he right or am I?  F.C.

A:  You are right, the contractor has not read his building code. The bottom row of shingles must project past the fascia board a minimum of 13 mm to provide a “drip edge”. This prevents water from seeping under the shingles by capillary action. If water is absorbed by the wood structure, deterioration will result. As well, if the shingles are installed flush, the fascia will absorb water, expand and warp, require more frequent painting and early replacement.

To remedy the problem, lift the bottom row of shingles and re-install with the 13 mm projection. The shingles along the rake edge of the roof should also have the 13 mm projection. To reduce maintenance, use pressure-treated wood for the fascia, and cover it with pre-finished flashing. Various colours are available, and the bottom 25 mm of the flashing should be bent outwards to form a drip edge.

If you have doubts about a contractor’s work, withhold part or all of the monies due until the situation is resolved to your satisfaction. Check qualifications and references before hiring any contractor.

Q:  I have a window which has condensation between the two panes of glass. Is there any way to remedy this problem without replacing the window?  M.N.

A:  There are two types of double glazing. The traditional type consists of two separate sashes, each with single glazing. If you have the older “storm” window type it can easily be removed from the outside for cleaning. Some new double glazed windows are available with a removable sash on the inside.

The modern type of double glazing is called a “sealed unit”. Two panes of glass are sealed around the perimeter and installed in a single sash. It is not possible to separate the two panes without destroying the sealed unit. If you have condensation between the two panes, you must unfortunately replace the complete sealed unit. The condensation is caused by water vapour leaking through a break in the perimeter seal, or a crack in the glass.

Q:  I have a 70 year old home, and each fall the house shifts making it difficult to open the exterior doors. In the spring, the house returns to normal. Is there an easy solution to this problem?  J.R.

A:  Since the house is shifting on a seasonal basis, the problem is most likely due to frost heave. In the fall when the ground freezes, water in the soil turns to ice and expands. The expanding soil pushes the house upwards and deforms the wood frame. A house will be subject to frost heave if the footings are not placed below the frost line, which is 1,200 mm below grade in a 45 degree latitude.

A high water table may be present, or the soil around your house may not be a good draining type. Given the age of the house, it is possible that a weeping tile system was not installed, or if it was, it may now be crushed or filled with silt. Weeping tile drains underground water away from the foundation to a storm sewer, sump pit or outfall.

You can install weeping tile around an existing house. Remove the earth around the foundation down to the base of the footings, where the weeping tile should be installed. Use 100 mm tile, and place 300 mm of crushed stone on both sides and over the tile, but not underneath. The tile should rest directly on undisturbed soil and slope towards the drain.

A high water table can also be caused by excessive water run-off from a neighbouring lot at a higher elevation than your lot. In this case, a system of swales, or shallow landscaped trenches, around the perimeter of your property may help to alleviate the problem. All the best!